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KILOMETRICII

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Draga Tudor,

I-am promis lui Andrei in noaptea de dinaintea plecarii spre Ucraina ca ii dau trezirea a doua zi la sase, ca sa trec granita in zori. Apoi, vazand ca ne intindem am zis opt-noua. Totul a decurs conform planului, si iata-ma in jur de ora doua dupa-masa iesind pe poarta, prin ploaie. Plecam. Intelegerea e sa ma conduca pana la frontiera. Cu costumul de ploaie pe mine, cumparat de la un magazin pescaresc nimic rau nu mi se poate intampla. Treaba merge, ploua mocaneste, nimic deranjant. Prefer asta caldurii. Opresc in benzinarie, alimentez, si-mi vad mai departe de drum. Inceputul traseului de azi este pana la un punct inversul finalului celui de ieri. Incep curbele pe urcare, stanga dreapta, sunt stapanul lor. Nu stiu eu sa numar pana la numarul la care vor ajunge curbele astea pana ma voi fi intors acasa. Curba la stanga, ma inclin, hopaaa… ceva nu e bine. Curba la dreapta, din nou nu e asa cum stiu eu ca ar trebui sa fie. Doyle al meu se comporta putin ciudat. Nu stiu exact ce are, dar ceva nu-i place. Da’ ce Doamne iarta-ma o fi? Imi sta pe creier. Adica o sa trebuiasca sa merg tot drumul de azi, daca o tine ploaia asta tot asa, cu morcovul asta infipt in posterior? Urmeaza o alta curba la stanga, destul de stransa, tot pe urcare. Hai sa vedem acum. Nu, nu e bine. Ghidonul prinde putin voblaj, dar nu ceva sa ma sperie, inaintam. Nu e bine deloc. Ce nai… e de rau. Imi trece prin cap o replica pe care o cunosc destul de bine. Apare in momentele astea ca un adevar indubitabil, e una din putinele dati cand chiar stii ce ti se va intampla. O sa cad. N-am nici cel mai mic dubiu.

Doyle fuge de sub mine, intr-o fractiune de secunda. Ma trezesc cu el in stanga mea, alunecand impreuna cu mine, culmea, la deal. Il simt ca se agata cumva de mine, dar reusesc sa ma despart de el. De-acum suntem pe cont propriu, fiecare pe barba lui. Baiatul meu o ia inainte, eu dupa el, pe spate. Singurul lucru pe care-l aud si acum e un zgomot infiorator de metal care zgarie asfaltul si care nu mai vrea sa se termine. Si ne oprim. Liniste absoluta. Doyle zace intr-o rana, pe mijlocul drumului, intors la 180 de grade, la vreo doi metri in fata mea.

02-001

Ma ridic de parca as fi cazut in picioare si fug la el. Ii iau contactul, desi el cuminte si-a oprit motorul inainte s-o fac eu. Ma uit in jur, la mine, la el. Eu sunt ok. Nu ok, suprinzator de ok. Estimez un 50-60 km/ora cand ne-a lovit napasta. Putea sa fie cu artificii, dar n-a fost decat cu scantei, cred ca la propriu. Costumul de ploaie e franjuri, terminat, rupt tot. Vad o julitura pe costum la cotul stang si un mic semn in palma stanga. Si ploua. Infig bratele in animal, cu gandul sa incerc sa-l ridic. E lemn. Nu pot sa-l misc nici macar un centimetru. Nu-i nimic, unde sunt oameni nu exista sa nu poti rezolva o problema. Trece o masina, a doua, a treia. Nimic. Incetinesc toti si se minuneaza de scena asta bonus in peisaj. Nu in fiecare zi vezi o motocicleta lata in mijocul drumului si unu’ care sta cu mainile in sold si se uita la ea. Trebuie sa recunosc ca e o priveliste misto. Ma gandesc ca oricum pana se hotaraste cineva sa ma ajute n-am ce sa fac, si scot aparatul sa fac o poza. Intre timp mai trec vreo cinci masini. Si binenteles, dupa alte sase, doi motociclisti. Nici nu asteapta sa le fac semn si sunt opriti pe dreapta. Esti ok? Da, sunt ok. Asta micu’ ar trebui totusi luat din drum, dar nu-l pot ridica singur. Timid, isi face aparitia si un logan de politie care opreste putin mai sus si din care coboara un agent vorbitor la mobil. Eu si cei doi tovarasi de suferinta apucam calul cazut de coarne. Unde-s trei puterea creste si iata-l pe roti din nou. Ingerasii mei de azi sunt belgieni, fac un tur al Europei de zece mii de kilometri, in doua saptamani. Le spun incotro ma indrept si dilata un pic pupilele la mine, zambind. Se apropie si domnul politist care isi incheie convorbirea telefonica pana noi am muncit si ma intreaba daca sunt bine si daca am nevoie de ambulanta. Nu e cazul, dar ce gest frumos, ah. Baietii imi ureaza succes si ma roaga sa nu mai cad. Ma abtin sa le promit asta, avand in vedere ca nici acum nu inteleg cum am reusit. Le multumesc si ii rog sa-si vada de drum, dar cu atentie sporita, sa nu incerce sa copieze fapta asta a mea.

Ma trag pe margine si incep sa copletez fisa de daune. Eu in continuare ok. Nici macar adrenalina n-a aparut in urma episodului astuia. Sunt foarte calm, putin iritat ca am plecat tarziu si asta ma va intarzia si mai mult. Doyle in schimb are una dintre canistre polizata. Atat de tare incat a facut gaura. Si de-acolo curge ulei. Era canistra cu uleiul de rezerva. Il vars in cealalta gandind ca pe asta o lipesc mai tarziu si vad ca gentuta din partea stanga se misca. Sistemul de prindere e indoit si cam compromis. Intre timp ajunge si Andrei, intors telefonic din drum de mine. Punem patentul si ajungem la o intelegere legand cutia cu chingi de suport. Singura pierdere mai grea a fost disparitia unui set de chei, probabil uitate pe marginea drumului, pe care am constatat-o mai tarziu. Aveam de rezerva, dar nu e bine ca s-a intamplat.

02-006

© Andrei Pungovschi

02-007

© Andrei Pungovschi

In fine, dupa o ora plecam. Nu mai sunt om. Mi se pare ca la fiecare curba o sa dau iara cu capul de pamant, si merg fara nicio placere. Imi dau seama ca ratez un peisaj minunat. Bucovina e o minune, dar nu ma pot bucura de ea. Sunt atent la drum mai mult decat trebuie, si nu e sanatos. Dar merg inainte, n-am de ales. Singura chestie care ma mai linisteste e ca in urmatoarea curba de dupa aia care m-a victimizat erau aliniate in parapet vreo sase masini, deci e clar ca cu asfaltul ala era ceva. Lasa, mergem usor. Usor asa, ‘oi a junge eu.

02-005

© Andrei Pungovschi

Si ajung. Vama ucraineana e din ce in ce mai aproape. Vad indicatoare de Siret deja si alt sentiment de emotie cu arome de frica ma cuprinde. Cu fiecare kilometru e mai rau. Mai intens de fapt, ca rau n-are ce sa fie. Opresc la ultima benzinarie sa-mi iau la revedere de la Andrei si Oana. Imi tot iau la revedere si nu reusesc nicicum sa-mi fac curaj sa plec. Hai, ca se poate.

Ma sui pe motocicleta si mai merg o suta de metri. Pana la prima bariera unde intreb vamesul cum e cu cartea asta verde, ca eu n-am. Eh, floare la ureche, vezi ca mai in spate scrie pe un geam la asigurari ca daca e urgenta sa suni la nu-stiu-ce numar. Ce tare. Asa fac. Vocea de la celalalt capat imi spune ca vine, imi face o asigurare de doua saptamani pentru Ucraina, care ma va costa treizeci de dolari, dar ca el, daca nu-i dau si 50 de lei nu se deranjeaza. Ah, ce dor o sa-mi fie de Romanica. Da tata, hai si rezolva-ma sa ma vad scapat odata. Apare omul, imi ia banii, imi da hartia verde si-mi declara bucuros ca noi suntem frati, ca si el are patru motociclete si merge la intruniri. Deci se vede treaba ca(,) cartea verde era branza. Te pup frate, esti mare. Am plecat.
Sunt la coada la primul ghiseu al vamii, impreuna cu miliardele mele de ganduri. Sunt varza. Ajung la ghiseu. O don’soara destul de simpatica imi ia actele si-si vede de treaba ei acolo. Sunt atat de varza, incat desi stiind ca nu imi trebuie viza, o intreb la cel ma sincer mod cat costa viza. Imi spune initial “nu stiu”, iar apoi se intorce spre mine si loveste: “adica nu aveti viza?”. Panica. Ma gandesc instant ca toti banii si timpul si stresul dat pe ambasade, scrisori de invitatie, vize pentru toate Stan-urile alea indepartate tocmai s-au dus in ma-sa, din cauza unei amarate de vize pentru Ucraina. Si spun un “nu…” cu cei mai tristi ochi pe care ii poate avea un caine plouat si flamand intr-o benzinarie. La care don’soara, afisand un zambet, ma izbaveste cu o replica de tatuat pe piept: “nu-ti trebuie ma viza”. Aaaaaah, deci exista viata dupa moarte, e cert. Dupa care, relaxati, ne permitem luxul de a tine coada pe loc cateva minute ca ea sa afle unde merg si mai ales, intrebare la care nu cred ca am reusit sa dau un raspuns satisfacator – de ce?

Ucraina e dincolo de domnii astia in uniforme si cu chipiuri cam exagerate. Unul vine la mine, inconjoara motocicleta si ma intreaba daca “vruuuuuum?…” facand un gest din incheietura. Il invit sa vruuuuuuum si trage cu pofta de acceleratie. Astept in sa cateva minute, pana imi dau seama ca masinile din spate trec una cate una pe langa mine. Nu, aici e altfel. Ma dau io jos si ma duc cu actele. Completez formulare, nu e bine, mai completez, mi se dau acte inapoi, mi se cer iara. Suspectez o pofta de spaga, dar sunt cu toate in regula, n-ai ce sa-mi faci. Mai vizitez doua ghisee si mi se spune ca pot pleca, dupa ce toata lumea ma intreaba daca am arme sau droguri. Sigur, am, cu ce va servesc? O tai si incerc sa ocolesc o bariera cand aud “STOP! STOP!”. Ah, n-a mers. Mai tre sa dau o hartie. Si gata, o ard. Urlu in casca un “Ukraine, baby!” si da-i.

Douazeci de kilometri, proaspat accident. Cu lume adunata in jurul unei dube rasturnata in boscheti. Nu-i a’buna. Incepe usor sa mi se contureze in cap cum ca ideea de a baga cortul intr-o padure in prima noapte nu e chiar asa buna. Sunt obosit, ud, ploua in continuare si e deja ora opt. N-am cum sa mai ajung pe lumina unde mi-am propus, asa ca o sa caut un hotel. Nu stiu nicio litera din alfabetul chirilic inafara de P ala care-i R, dar “hotel” n-are P, asa ca are sa fie interesant. Intunericul se lasa incet peste drumul meu, iar eu nu par sa gasesc vreun indiciu cum ca prin tinuturile in care umblu si-ar gasi locul vreun hotel. E gol totul pe-aici, pustiu. Padure, camp, padure. Incep sa disting drumul din ce in ce mai greu si farurile din fata ma bulverseaza pe ploaia asta. Incerc sa merg cu vizorul ridicat, dar parca ploua cu ace in loc de apa. Sunt sleit, orbecaiesc prin noapte fara scuza, si in cap imi suna doar o regula de baza dintr-o carte despre adventure motorcycling – “Never ride at night unless you are looking for trouble”. Si constat ca contrar a ceea ce stiu eu despre mine, o cam caut cu lumanarea. Ma gandesc ca daca nu opresc sa intreb pe cineva de un hotel o sa merg asa pana la Kiev, ceea ce iti jur ca nu e bine deloc. Si incetinesc in dreptul unui super-market satesc in fata caruia un om, vazandu-ma, imi face un gest larg cu bratele, pe care eu il interpretez ca “parcheaza ca la tine acasa”. Opresc. Ma dau jos si incepe dialogul. In prima fraza disting o intrebare care avea in ea si cuvantul vodka. Nu, inca nu, abia am ajuns la voi. Intreb de hotel, punandu-mi palmele sub cap, in semn ca vreau nani si imi explica cum ca la doi kilometri de acolo gasesc unul cu firma luminoasa. Pe el il cheama Serioja, si e foarte simpatic. Un domn in tricou si pantaloni scurti si vorbaret din cale-afara, desi nu inteleg o iota din ce zice. Intra in supermarket si se intoarce cu o cafea calda. Din nou multumesc divinitatii ca mi-a scos motocicleta in cale. Atat de usor se intampla bucuriile astea simple atunci cand esti calare. Sunt mut. Plec prin noapte in cautarea hotelului lasandu-l pe Serioja in urma, cu salutul lui cu mana dreapta la piept.

02-002

Gasesc hotelul. E fantoma, dar central. Dau peste un domn undeva la intrare, pazind un ghiseu. “Do you speak English?”. “Yes”. Si atat, de-aici incolo nu ne-am mai inteles. A sunat, a coborat o doamna, m-a luat cu ea intr-un birou sus. Am incercat sa explic ca eu vreau sa dorm o noapte si nu am decat euro. A fost fantastic. Intrebam daca douazeci de euro ajung, iar doamna imi raspundea cate cinci minute dupa care “paniemaiet?”. Nu. O luam de la capat. Eu intreb daca ajung aia douazeci, ea in continuare imi povesteste in dulcele ei grai neinteles. Mai cheama intariri. Apare un domn cu care din nou nu ma inteleg, dar care ma tot bate linistitor pe umar spunandu-mi ceva ce eu intelegeam a fi un soi de“o sa fie bine”. Bine, bine, da’ pot sa dorm si eu aici? Discuta intre ei, aud ceva de curs si banca. Incep sa inteleg ca nimeni nu stie cat e cursul euro, ca sa-mi poata da rest, asta pare ca e problema. Intreb daca nu poate fi sunat cineva care stie cursul euro la ora asta si mi se raspunde dezaprobator din cap. Mi se intind 50 de unitati din moneda locala si sunt intrebat daca sunt multumit. Hm, normal! Toata lumea pare multumita.
Mi se arata camera, ah, o bijuterie. Are pat! In sfarsit. Ce zi…, ce noapte buna.

02-004

Si dimineata. Deschid un ochi la sapte. Neah, ploua la fel ca atunci cand am adormit, la trei dimineata. La naiba, uite-asa se duce din nou planul meu de plecare devreme. Somn la loc. Ma trezesc din nou peste doua ore si… liniste. Ce blana, pot si eu sa plec in sfarsit. Ma asteapta 450 de kilometri pana la Kiev. Ma ridic din pat si constat ca sunt anchilozat. Spatele e intepenit, si am un fel de febra musculara in umarul stang. Probabil de la tumba de ieri. Strang tot si cobor la montatul zilnic. Numai bine jos ma asteapta ploaia. Bag o injuratura si nu mai iau pe mine niciun costum de ploaie, ca oricum pantalonii sunt in cosul de gunoi din camera de hotel si geaca e franjuri. Asta e, ma descurc. Am plecat, spasiba drag hotel!

02-008

© Andrei Pungovschi

Comments

Comment from writeman
Time July 16, 2009 at 12:03 am

frate, da’ repede ai mai intrat in paine! adica na, prima cazatura! sper ca Doyle sa-ti poarte bine de grija, ca daca nu ii rupem picioarele (rotile) la intoarcere. la ucraineni, din cate stiu, merge cu pupaturi si batai prietenesti pe spate. tu ai un pic fata de rus, deci vei fi in regula ;) . drum bun, sa nu mai cazi!

Pingback from Mihai Barbu, prima căzătură – lasă că ăi puternici se ridică! «
Time July 16, 2009 at 12:09 am

[...] sătești și să n-ai cu cine te înțelege pentru un acoperiș deasupra capului? citiți aici despre ultimele peripeții ale [...]

Comment from Rave
Time July 16, 2009 at 12:24 am

Mihai, ai inceput campreatare! N-o tine tot asa, ca ne falfaie inimioarele de grija ta. Drum bun, dar sanatos!

Comment from Radu
Time July 16, 2009 at 1:11 am

Ai un stil sa tii cititorii in tensiune… ceva de speriat! NAPRAVO GOSPODIN MIHAIU! :)

Comment from Mihai
Time July 16, 2009 at 1:31 am

Multumesc! Radu, ai grija, ca urmezi :)

Comment from Bordeianu
Time July 16, 2009 at 1:45 am

Mai, mai…
Ma bucur ca e bine pana acuma si…multumim de ploaie da mai ho! ca prindem igrasie.
Asfalt u s c a t, Mihael!

Comment from FanFane
Time July 16, 2009 at 2:32 am

Mah, Mihai… Tu ziceai ca te pregatesti de 2 ani de zile. Tu chiar nu ti-ai dat seama ca cea mai mare parte a drumului o petreci in tari in care scrie in chirilica ?!? Eu zic la Kiev sa intri intr-o librarie si sa-ti cauti un ghid de conversatie englez-rus (ca romana nici o sansa…).
Oare ceva de mongoleza s-o gasi ? :) )

Hai drum bun mai departe ! Si las-o mai moale cu cazaturile, ca de abia ai inceput drumul. Slow down, remember ?

Comment from mihai
Time July 16, 2009 at 3:29 am

am citit de patent. vezi ca rusii mai au prostul obicei, rar, sa puna si filet invers (axu rotii mele de exemplu sau tevile de gaz) si au prostul obicei ca unele suruburi sa nu aiba acelasi pas cu cele “europene”. ai doua variante: dai dovada de inteligenta sau de forta. stiu ca esti puternic dar alege prima varianta pentru binele motorului:).

daca vrei o lista cu principalele caractere si cum se citesc, cat sa deslusesti repede nume de localitati etc, maine o poti avea gata. scrisul de tipar se citeste usor si se invata repede. daca ceri o ciorba nu dai gres daca o ceri in romaneste. sau un ceai:D.

revenind, azi am vrut sa te salut si nu stiu de ce am vrut sa gasesc in ruseste ceva care sa prinda putin spiritul “noroc camarade” sau “buna ziua tovarase”. am cautat un ghid de conversatie rusesc, am gasit si am inceput sa citesc. problema era ca nu gaseam nimic potrivit sa iti spun, si frazele erau in genul: cat costa kilogramul de morcovi? de cand te-am vazut nu ma pot gandi decat la tine, vrei sa fii sotia mea?, unde e statia de autobuz, esti cea mai frumoasa fiinta pe care am cunoscut-o etc. ceva nu era bine in ordinea in care erau explicate frazele. pe urma am descoperit ca era un ghid de conversatie de pe un site de unde iti poti cumpara o nevasta made in rusia. asa ca poti aduce cate o pietricica oamenilor dar poate cer si eu ceva mai voluminos:D.

ti-as mai impartasi si din cunostintele mele de rusa. prima lectie a stabilit contextul ideologic: baiete, daca vrei ceva de la mine, si incerci sa ma imbeti, macar fii sigur ca poti sa bei mai mult. restul lectiilor m-au invatat numai cuvinte care in mod normal transforma obrajii in magnet pentru palmele femeilor. mai bine tac si plec sa dorm.

drum bun mihai si daca un om sacrifica 2-3 ore de somn si mult tutun pentru a se gandi la ce faci tu si la impotenta spirituala care il impiedica pe el sa fie ala care te ajuta sa ridici motoru inseamna ca puetrea exemplului functioneaza

Comment from Mihai
Time July 16, 2009 at 7:53 am

Pai na, pregatirea de doi ani n-are nicio legatura, cred eu. Daca as fi vrut sa fie totul uns probabil ca faceam meditatii de Rusa si mergeam cu avionul. Nu ma plang ca nu stiu rusa. Mi se pare foarte tare ca pot comunica. Exista ghid de conversatie Englez-Mongol, il am, dar sta foarte bine acasa, asteptandu-ma. :)

Comment from Pacasac
Time July 16, 2009 at 9:06 am

Vezi ca un EUR e in jur de 10 Hrivne, sau Grivne. Ti-au cam dat tzeapa oamenii de la hotel :(

Daca esti amator de bere, intreaba de Starii Melnik, Baltika, Slavutici sau Lvivske :) . Daca esti amator de vodka, incearca Ruski Standard.

Mai baga niste detalii despre locurile pe unde te-ai oprit. Nu de alta, da’ in aproximativ 3 saptamani o sa vizitez si eu Ucraina.

Multa bafta in continuare.

Comment from Bob
Time July 16, 2009 at 9:52 am

Baltika Rulz ;)

Comment from MЭLCIЦ
Time July 16, 2009 at 10:24 am

DЯДGЦL ИФSTЯЦ MIHДI, EЦ VЯEДЦ SД-TI MЦLTЦMESC PEЙTЯЦ IИCД Ф DIMIЙEДTД IИ CДЯE ЙЦ SЦИT EFICIEЙT PEИTЯЦ “CФЯPФЯДTIE”. SI VEZI CД LIMЬД ЯЦSД ЙЦ-I CHIДЯ ДSД GЯEД.

Comment from writeman
Time July 16, 2009 at 10:38 am

@ FanFane – omul s-a pregatit spiritual, si-a facut curaj. e o experienta mistica, ce naiba :P

Comment from lucian muntean
Time July 16, 2009 at 11:05 am

Eheei calatorule, au inceput aventurile!!! Cred ca e mai bine asa decat sa ne fi ziz ca mori de plictis… :)
Mihai, te rog fumeaza o mahorca in cinstea mea :) ( ca nu am avut ocazia niciodata) dar atentie, nu in benzinarie!!! :)

Comment from petre
Time July 16, 2009 at 12:57 pm

nu curbele l-au zvarlit pe pigei la pamint, pigei le-a pedepsit cu un cap in gura ca erau ude. cre ca-ti stiu de frica acu.

Comment from edisone
Time July 16, 2009 at 2:52 pm

mah, termina cu(,) cazaturile(,) ca ma (i)enervez X-(

Comment from devla
Time July 16, 2009 at 3:01 pm

migai,jmecheriile io le faceam..si nu cu
motorul….parca cu altceva..nu mai jtiu..
te tzuc..drumuri bune

Comment from Semaca
Time July 16, 2009 at 3:13 pm

Bai Chitzulane , cum i-a pus Dumnezeu asta pe belgieni exact pe drumurile unde e mai mare nevoie de ei ! =)) D-acu e clar , umbla cate 2.

Comment from silvia
Time July 16, 2009 at 8:55 pm

domnilor, vad ca numa barbatzii se baga la comentarii cand e vorba de cazaturi. Tin sa precizez ca si eu am genunchii insemnati de o bicla ruseasca. Asa ca, fetele, sa nu stam cu frica-n san, zic..Ne bagam, comentam? :D

Comment from madalina
Time July 16, 2009 at 10:36 pm

Las ca e bine, cel putin asa pare :) . Of, cat te invidiez pentru ce faci, nu stiu cand o sa am si eu curajul sa ies singura din tara, macar pana la bulgari. Cat despre cazaturi personale… si eu am doua cu bicicleta, cu urme cu tot:D, cu Siegi-Krupp (motoretul) inca nu, da’… Drum bun si frumos in continuare, noi astia de pe langa asteptam si asteptam si fumam si bem si tot fumam si tot asteptam si citim si rascitim! Calatorie frumoasa iti doresc!

Comment from Doormouse
Time July 17, 2009 at 12:48 am

kakaia bazdagania, Mihail Mihailovici… sa pui dumneata armasaru’ cu greabanu’ la pamant, ii cu putinta?

Comment from misha
Time July 17, 2009 at 10:33 am

Dragule !!!! Drum bun !!! si sa va fie bine!!! … mi-a dat Misi linkul si am apucat sa rasfoiesc un pic, cat sa imi dau seama ca de tine e vorba si ca au incepute peripetiile… ca un amic comun a cumparat kilometri…

Toate cele bune !
Misha

Comment from barbu
Time July 17, 2009 at 1:16 pm

Cocoshele, nu uita sa fotografiezi si ceva ucrainience.Cunoscatorii spun ca sunt cele mai frumoase locuri de vizitat.

Comment from ocsike
Time July 17, 2009 at 7:37 pm

Bafta man… o sa iti urmaresc drumul… Mongolia e departe… :D

Comment from mariuska
Time July 18, 2009 at 12:48 am

mica si de departe vin si eu cu tine!

Comment from mihai barbu
Time July 20, 2009 at 1:02 am

Te urmaresc cu mare interes si cu inima indoita de emotie.Ma bucur ca razbuni sedentarismul si conformismul intregului clan.
(Unchiul) Mihai Barbu

Comment from naele
Time August 12, 2009 at 4:40 pm

mihaiii….daca te mai intreaba vreun nene de ”vrummmmm…vrummmmm”…spune-le te rog ca ai un prieten in bv care prepareaza ROCK 3….fac si export la nevoie…
Drum bun frate”meleu” pe roate…!!!
Sfat: ai grija la ucrainiencele peste 1.90 inaltime si late in spate …..sunt barbati…cel putin lovesc la fel de bine. :D

Comment from Ninja-(silviu matei)
Time August 13, 2009 at 1:18 pm

Drum bun.

Comment from Ruxandra Voinea
Time August 19, 2009 at 5:13 pm

Drum bun! ne gandim la tine (pe unde o fi Mihai??).. de abia astept sa vad poze..am citit tot pana acum.Ruxandra

Comment from mama
Time October 1, 2009 at 6:23 pm

Am recitit scrisoarea ta.

Comment from cristina
Time October 22, 2009 at 3:08 pm

nu se poate altfel,chiar de la inceput, avand in carca experienta celorlalte scrisori….
fug pe ele, inventariez fotografiile,citesc franturi,iara poze, iar franturi, sa nu fuga din fata mea…
si necuminte incep sa le citesc…
de ce de mai multe ori decat trecutele cursuri???

Comment from lol
Time November 15, 2009 at 8:43 pm

:D

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لقد بدأت القراءة مع السرور الذي كتبه لكم ، على الرغم من أن الرحلة قد انتهت وانه كان من الصعب، واعتقد أنك لم متعة كبيرة، وكان مثيرا للغاية، بالنظر الآن الباردة ، وفصل! وكنت أتمنى لو أتمكن من جعل السفر من هذا القبيل. أعتقد أن ما أتذكر نفسي هي أموال، والافتقار إلى المال لقطع الغيار والوقود، وإلا… الله أكبر!

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